Why did Ken Bradshaw, arguably the world’s most famous big wave surfer at the turn of the century, paddle over to Vaughn Jones, a teacher in his forties from Port Elizabeth, aka Billows to his students, and bite his surfboard? Not a nibble. An aggressive, use-both-hands-for-leverage, maintain-eye-contact act of terror.
I’ve been ruminating over this for months, replaying the incident on sleepless nights. It happened 20 years ago on a decent July afternoon at the Point, a spot normally packed with groms and weekend warriors. It was intensely crowded and scrappy, the way it tends to get when the World Championship Tour rolls into J-Bay.
One moment, we were sitting at the takeoff boil, watching the horizon. The next, Bradshaw was aeroplaning his herculean torso across the water, then locking…