Admit it, you love it when your surfing buddy misses a good session and you get to tell them all about it.
“You should’ve been there, bru. It was pitting left, right and centre, ekse.”
The recount often includes a couple of embellished facts, and the surfer regaling doesn’t give the full report; like how crowded it really was, or the fact that it only barrelled left, right and centre for half an hour while the tide filled in. But that’s the beauty of it, your buddy wasn’t there to learn the truth for themselves.
I remember my first time. I was twelve, and up until that point my brother and I had always surfed together. When he went for a wave, little bro would come too, so the opportunity…