When I was younger I used to do a fair amount of running. I would run from teachers, my parents, the police – pretty much anyone who represented authority. There was always somebody who wanted a word with me. I was very misunderstood. And very fit.
Now that people have finally stopped chasing me, surfing is the only exercise I get. Thanks to the massive crowds at every break, my sitting and lying down muscles are particularly well developed. On the rare occasion that I do get a wave and manage to lurch to my feet, my legs also get a workout. It’s only for a few seconds, but that’s all they need. They’re legs, for heaven’s sake. You only need them for bottom turns, cutbacks and walking to the…
