Tabla de contenidos para November/December 2017 en Modern Patchwork

Isn’t that a loaded question? We’d recently been to the Yale University Art Gallery. When we visit this museum, we usually go our separate ways. He wanders the impressionistic galleries and visits the old masters, while I automatically trot to the third floor to see paintings by my favorite modern artists. Although we both love art, we’ve found it is more fun to see what we like on our own then talk about our visit over a cup of coffee later. I could spend hours standing in front of an Albers painting or a Rothko canvas. Each brush stroke is brilliant. Each composition is tight and complete. Each painting is spare and sparse, yet full of meaning. Colors interact, dance through my head, and inspire my own quilted artwork. My…

When I started quilting over 20 years ago, quilt backs most often consisted of a single fabric. I followed that ‘rule’ for many years. As I began making quilts from my own designs, I gained confidence in design and fabric choice. I also started experimenting with different ideas and techniques for the backs of my quilts. Simple large-scale blocks are a great way to make an impact on the back. Not only do they have a ‘wow’ factor, they use up leftover yardage from the front. “I’ve Got Your Back” is the reverse side of my quilt “Reverse Champion.” I love them both! Whether you find yourself endowed with extra yardage left over from the front, orphan blocks, or fun scraps that beg to be used, intentionally integrating them into…

Oakland, California DAN ROUSE’S QUILTS ARE ANYTHING BUT STATIC. As a landscape designer in his daily work, he focuses on movement and how he wants someone to feel as they move through a space. His goal is no different in his quilts. “It is about getting the sense of movement through the landscape of the quilt. Where your eye goes is the movement.” His quilts aren’t landscape quilts, nor are they pictorial. But they are bold and they do draw in the viewer to experience the quilt. While he isn’t tied to a particular technique, Dan is very well known for his reverse appliqué work. For each reverse appliqué project, Dan starts with a photo-based sketch. His subject matter is, more often than not, an animal. The first thing he…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. From navy, cut: — 3 (10" x 40") strips. From the strips cut, 11 (10") squares for HSTs. — 1 (2 ¾ " x 5 ½ ") rectangle for end piece block triangle C. Fold the rectangle in half widthwise. Make a diagonal cut from the corner of the fold, through 2 layers to the opposite corner; unfold for triangle C. Discard the 2 smaller, trimmed triangles. From white, cut: — 3 (10" x 40") strips. From the strips cut: • 11 (10") squares for HSTs, and • 1 (5 ½ ") square for end piece block. Cut the square in half on the diagonal and label 1 triangle A. Fold the remaining triangle in half along the diagonal edge and finger press…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. Label and stack pieces as you cut. Sort by length and fabric number, white, or gray. Cut an 18 ½ " square from the template material. Mark both diagonal lines on the template. From Fabric 1, cut: — 2 (3" x 40") strips. From strips, cut 4 (3" x 20") B strips. From Fabric 2, cut: — 3 (3" x 40") strips. From strips, cut 2 (3" x 30") C strips and 4 (3" x 8") A strips. From Fabric 3, cut: — 5 (3" x 40") strips. From strips, cut 1 (3" x 30") C strip, and 4 (3" x 26") E strips. From Fabric 4, cut: — 2 (3" x 40") strips. From strips, cut 4 (3" x 14") D strips.…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. From each of Navy and Midnight, cut: — 2 (19 ¼ " x 40") strips. From the strips, cut 3 (19 ¼ ") squares. Cut each square diagonally in half and then in half again to make 12 A triangles. NOTE: Handle triangles carefully to avoid stretching the bias edges. From each of Nautical, Indigo, Peacock, and Denim, cut: — 2 (97⁄8" x 40") strips. Cut 6 (97⁄8") squares from the strips. Cut each square in half diagonally to make 12 B triangles. NOTE: Handle triangles carefully to avoid stretching the bias edges. From Pickle, cut: — 7 (2 ¼ " x 40") strips for binding. ASSEMBLY 1. For Block 1, sew a Nautical B to the left of a Navy A triangle. Sew a…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼ " seam allowances. Border strips are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. From blue, cut: — 1 (70 ½ " x 40") strip. From the strip, cut parallel to the selvedge 2 (10 ½ " x 70 ½ ") strips for borders, 1 (11" x 70 ½ ") strip for blocks, and 3 (2 ¼ " x 70 ½ ") strips for binding. From the blocks strip, cut 6 (11") squares. — 1 (55" x 40") strip. From the strip, cut parallel to the selvedge 3 (11" x 55") strips for blocks. From the blocks strips, cut 14 (11") squares. From the remaining fabric, cut parallel to the selvedge 3 (2 ¼ " x 55") strips for…

French-fold Binding A well-made binding will protect the edges of your quilt, add to the overall design, and make it last longer. The following technique is for creating a French-fold binding, also known as a double-fold binding. PREPARE THE BINDING 1. Measure the perimeter of your quilt and add approximately 24". The additional length will accommodate the mitered corners and the finished ends of the binding, and give you a few inches to spare. 2. Cut enough 2 ¼ "-wide strips to equal the desired length. 3. Join the strips together using diagonal seams. To do this, place two strips, right sides together at right angles. The area where the strips overlap forms a square. Sew diagonally across the square. Trim the excess fabric ¼ " from the seam line…

CUTTING Measurements include 1/4 " seam allowances. Border strips are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. Label the pieces as they are cut. From brown, cut: — 1 (4" x 40") strip. From the strip, cut 8 (4") squares for center star. — 1 (7 1/4" x 40") strip. From the piece, cut 2 (7.") squares and 8 (3 1/2") squares for center star. — 1 (2" x 40") strip. From the strip, cut 16 (2") squares for border 2 pinwheel blocks. — 7 (2 ½" x 40") strips. Using diagonal seams , sew the strips into 1 continuous strip. From this strip , cut 2 (2 ½" x 24 ½") side borders and 2 (2 ½" x 28 ½") top…

Flying Geese Blocks Four at a time Flying Geese blocks are made up of the ‘Geese,’ which is a large, centered triangle in the unit, and the ‘Sky’ which are the triangles on the sides. There are several ways to make Flying Geese blocks, but if your quilt pattern calls for several in the same color combination, this method can’t be beat. There is absolutely no wasted fabric, and no need to work with unstable bias edges. The Geese section begins as a single large square and 4 smaller squares make up the Sky. 1. First, to determine the size of squares to cut, write down the size of the finished block. For our example, we’ll use a 2" × 4" finished block. For the large Geese piece , cut…

TEXTILES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN CONNECTED TO ACTIVISM, from suffragists sewing protest banners to Hmong refugees in Southeast Asia embroidering images of war onto story cloths. The intersection of quilt making and human rights is explored in a traveling exhibit currently at the Pick Museum of Anthropology at Northern Illinois University. In 2008, the Michigan State University Museum opened “Quilts and Human Rights.” This exhibit featured quilts from around the world that honor champions of human rights and document quilt making as a means of coping with oppression. It also examines how quilts raise awareness of global social issues. Mary Worrall, the MSU Museum’s Curator of Cultural Heritage, says the exhibit grew out of the museum’s strong quilt collection. “We looked at how quilts fit into a history of textiles associated…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼ " seam allowances. Press seams open. Border strips are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. Label pieces as they are cut. From each of light coral and medium purple, cut: — 4 (2 ½ ") squares for small blocks. From each of medium coral and light purple, cut: — 1 (5 ¾ ") square for small blocks Half-Square Triangle blocks (HSTs). From medium aqua, cut: — 4 (5 ½ ") squares for large block. From light aqua, cut: — 1 (11 ¾ ") square for large block HSTs. From brown, cut: — 1 (5 ¾ " x 40") strip. From the strip, cut 2 (5 ¾ ") squares for small blocks HSTs. From the remaining strip, cut…

Color blocking is a classic modern design that has made its mark on fashion, home décor, graphic design and, of course, quilting. During the 1960s, when the iconic Mondrian dress came into vogue, everyday design became more structured, more minimalist, and more colorful. Today, this design aesthetic continues to inspire quilters, and color blocking provides endless possibilities for unique, modern quilts. The main ingredients in color-blocked quilts are simple: graphic color palettes and alternate gridwork. Learn to use these two elements together by following this “recipe” for a colorblocked quilt. Once you’re ready to try it yourself, design your own quilt or use the pattern for the color-blocked pillow on the following pages. Choose a graphic color palette Quilts with great color palettes are unexpected, fun, fresh, and sometimes a…

Half-Square Triangle Blocks Two at a time Half-Square Triangle blocks (HSTs) are some of the most versatile blocks we use in quilting, but the bias-edge seam makes them a bit of a challenge. This quick method for making two identical HST blocks at once eliminates the need to sew along a cut bias edge—you get more blocks with less fuss. 1. Cut 2 squares 7⁄8" larger than the desired finished size of your block. 2. Using a ruler, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the lighter square from the upper left to the lower right corner. 3. With right sides facing, pair a dark square with the marked light square. 4. Stitch ¼ " on each side of the drawn line. 5. Cut along the drawn line, creating…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼ " seam allowances. Follow the cutting chart below for each pillow. PILLOW 1 ASSEMBLY 1. Referring to the Pillow 1 Assembly Diagram, arrange the pieces on a design wall. 2. Sew the striped center portion together. Sew gray 1 rectangles to the left and right sides. The finished unit should measure 16 ½" x 32 ½ ". 3. Fold the unit in half, right sides together. 4. Sew around the 3 open sides leaving a 6" opening to insert the pillow form. Clip the corners to reduce bulk. 5. Turn the pillow right side out, push out the corners, and insert the pillow form. Hand stitch the opening closed. PILLOW 2 ASSEMBLY 1. Referring to Modern Basics: Half- Square Triangles—Two at a time on page 41,…

THE QUILTS OF GEE’S BEND Susan Goldman Rubin Follow the photo journey of the Gee’s Bend quilters and marvel at their quilts along the way. Full of history, the amazing story of these quilts is told in an informative and relatable style. Susan Goldman Rubin’s clear storytelling perfectly showcases the iconic and compelling story of the Gee’s Bend quilters. The quilters’ lifestyle, struggle, and strength are compassionately displayed through stunning photographs of both the geography of the area and the quilts. With succinct but compelling text, this book is joyfully put together for the young reader, but is fascinating for any age. $21.95 • Abrams • abramsbooks.com RAINBOW QUILTS FOR SCRAP LOVERS: 12 PROJECTS FROM SIMPLE SQUARES—CHOOSING FABRICS AND ORGANIZING YOUR STASH Judy Gauthier Judy Gauthier’s designs use only 3½…

Half-Square Triangle Blocks Eight at a time Half-Square Triangles (HSTs) are a staple in the modern quilter’s toolbox. This time-saving method helps you make 8 HSTs at a time—quickly and accurately. 1. Using a ruler, draw diagonal lines on the lighter square from the upper left to lower right and from the upper right to the lower left. 2. Draw center vertical and horizontal lines 3. With right sides together, pair a dark square with the marked light square. 4. Stitch ¼ " on each side of the diagonal lines only. 5. Cut along the drawn diagonal lines, and again at the center vertical and horizontal line, creating 8 HSTs. 6. Press the seam allowances either open or toward the darker fabric. Trim the dog ears. 7. Voila! You now…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. From background fabric, cut: — 1 (3 ½ " x 40") strip. From the strip, cut 2 (3 ½ " x 7 ¾ ") A rectangles; 2 (3 ½ " x 3 ¼ ") B rectangles; and 2 (3 ½ " x 6 ¼ ") C rectangles. — 2 (4 ¾ " x 18") D rectangles. — 14 (3") squares, cut in half on the diagonal for paper piecing. — 1 (24" x 40") strip. From the strip, cut 2 (18" x 24") rectangles for pillow back. From charm squares, cut — 14 (2 ½ " x 5") rectangles. FLYING GEESE ASSEMBLY 1. Make 3 copies of the Flying Geese paper-piecing pattern. 2. Using the charm square rectangles for the Geese and the…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼" seam allowances. The sashing and border strips are the exact size required. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. From 10" squares : — Set aside 9 squares for the center Snowball blocks. — Trim the remaining 16 squares 6" square for the linking blocks. From peach , cut : — 2 (3" x 40") strips. From the strips , cut 20 (3") A squares for Snowball corners. — 2 (8" x 40") strips. From the strips , cut 32 (2 ½" x 8") B rectangles for linking blocks. — 7 (2 ¼" x 40") strips for binding. From blue , cut : — 2 (3" x 40") strips. From the strips , cut 16 (3") A squares for Snowball corners.…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼" seam allowances. Border strips are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. Label pieces as they are cut and separate them by block letter. From light orange , cut : — 1 (2 ½" x 40") strip. From the strip , cut 8 (2 ½") squares. Cut diagonally once. Label as A1. — 2 (2 ¾" x 40") strips. From the strips , cut 16 (2 ¾") squares. Cut diagonally once. Label 16 each : A3 and A4. — 2 (5 ¾" x 40") strips. From the strips , cut 32 (2 ½" x 5 ¾") rectangles. Label 16 each : B1 and C1. From lavender , cut : — 4 (4" x 40") strips. From the strips…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼ " seam allowances. Press seams open. From blue, cut: — 1 (7" x 16") rectangle A. — 1 (5 ¼ " x 12") rectangle H. From orange, cut: — 1 (5 ¼ " x 6 ¼ ") rectangle D. — 1 (5 ¼ " x 2") rectangle F. — 1 (8" x 2") rectangle B. — 1 (11" x 2 ½") rectangle C. From magenta, cut: — 1 (5 ¼ " x 6 ¼ ") rectangle E. — 1 (5 ¼ " x 3") rectangle G. From yellow, cut: — 1 (26" x 41") panel. From the panel, cut 2 (20 ½ " x 26") pillow back rectangles. — 4 (1 ½ " x 41") strips for sashing. UNIT ASSEMBLY NOTE: In this project, sashing strips are…

CUTTING Measurements include ¼ " seam allowances. Whenever possible, press seams toward the darker fabric. From each of light gray and dark gray, cut: — 5 (7 ½ " x 40") strips. From the strips, cut 48 (7 ½ " x 4") A rectangles. — (5) 4" x 40" strips. From each of green and aqua, cut: — 11 (2" x 40") strips. — 3 (5 ½ " x 40") strips. From the strips, cut 48 (5 ½ " x 2") B rectangles. From magenta, cut: — 6 (2" x 40") strips. — 5 (4" x 40") strips. From white, cut: — 9 (2 ½ " x 40") strips. — 5 (2" x 40") strips. From binding, cut: — 9 (2 ¼ " x 40") strips. BLOCK ASSEMBLY Each block…

Easy Envelope Pillow Backs—Two Ways Use these simple directions to finish pillows with an envelope closure. Binding or no binding? That’s up to you. MATERIALS ▪ Pillow top ▪Backing fabric ▪Pillow form ▪Point turner ▪Binding strips: 2 ¼ " × (the pillow perimeter + 5") (for the Envelope Back with Binding option only) ENVELOPE BACK WITHOUT BINDING 1. Cut 2 pieces of backing fabric, each the height of the finished pillow plus . " (for seam allowances) and the width of the finished pillow plus 6" (for overlap). As an example, for a 16" × 16" pillow, cut 2 rectangles, each 16 ½ " × 22". 2. Fold and press the rectangles in half widthwise, wrong sides facing. (In our example, the rectangles would be 16 ½ " × 11".)…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. Border strips are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. Label pieces as they are cut. From white, cut: — 1 (45 ½ " x 40") strip parallel to the selvedge. From this strip, cut 1 (27 ½ " x 45 ½ ") rectangle and 1 (9 ½ " x 45 ½ ") rectangle for background. — 1 (9 ½ " x 40") strip. From this strip, cut 1 (9 ½ " x 27 ½ ") rectangle and 1 (9 ½ ") square for background. — 7 (4 ½ " x 40") strips. From 1 strip, cut 4 (4 ½ " x 7 ½ ") rectangles for Maltese Cross Half Blocks. From the remaining strips,…

CUTTING Measurements include . " seam allowances. Background panels are exact length needed. You may want to make them longer to allow for piecing variations. From white, cut: — 28 (2 ½ " x 30") strips for the center motif. — 3 (2 ½ " x 40") strips for the vertical column. — 2 (82" x 40") panels for background. From blue pre-cuts, cut: — 30 (2 ½ " x 30") strips for center motif. — 9 (2 ½ " x 40") strips for binding. CIRCLE ASSEMBLY 1. Sew a 30" blue strip to a 30" white strip to make a blue/white set. Make 28 sets. NOTE: See sidebar, Keep Those Narrow Strips Straight, for tips to keep the strip sets from wobbling. 2. Sew 14 pairs of blue/white sets together.…

Foundation Paper Piecing 1. The shapes on paper piecing blocks are numbered. 2. Using fabric pieces that are larger than the numbered areas, place fabric 1 on the unprinted side of the paper, right side up. 3. Position fabric 2 on top of fabric 1, right sides facing and edges aligned. Make sure the edges of fabric 2 will extend at least ¼ " beyond the printed lines when pressed back into place. 4. With the paper on top, stitch directly on the pattern line between pieces 1 and 2, extending the stitching into the seam allowances at the end of the seams. 5. Press fabric 2 back. Fold the paper back along the stitched line and trim the seam allowance. 6. Continue to add pieces in numerical order. 7.…